Camino Francés Stage 34: Santiago Compostela

Camino Frances Eva standing in the Plaza del Obradoiro in Santiago Compostela

Journal

It’s over! I completed the 790 kilometers on the Camino Francés solo across Spain.

The back pages of my pilgrimage surfaced as I walked the final steps into Santiago. The outdoors shows you who you are. You're a compilation of the people you have met in your life. The conversations that changed you. Who you were when you were younger. The mistakes you made that taught you. A relationship that never quite disappeared. It’s the foundation you poured that is the house you live in.

I now understand John Muir’s quote: “Of all the paths you take in life, make sure some of them are dirt.”

-That Eva!

Trail Notes

• Quick Snapshot

  Distance: 19.5 km (12.1 miles)

  Time: 4 to 5 hours

  Elevation Gain: 350 meters of rolling, gentle ups and downs

  Difficulty: Easy to moderate

  Terrain: Shaded dirt and forest tracks, eucalyptus groves, and quiet rural path

• Food, Water & Stops

  • Pregontoño / A Peroxa: Early snack and drink options pop up right after crossing the tunnel past the chapel.

  • Taberna Vella / As Quintas (~5.2 km): Home to popular resting spots.

  • A Salceda (~9 km out): Features prominent rest options right on the path, such as Restaurante Bar O Curro, known for hot coffee and traditional quick bites.

  • Calzada & Amenal (Final 5–8 km): Several roadside bars, small local markets, and cafes.

• Where to Stay

  • Kilometer 15: 52€ Great little place right on Camino. it has a terraced bar and a little food shop.

  • Albergue Mirador de Pedrouzo: 15-17@

  • Pension Una Estrella Dorada: 55-75€

• Tips for Future Pilgrims

  • This is the last day.before Santiago.

  • Monte do Gozo is the emotional high point before Santiago itself — this is where the towers of the Cathedral first come into view in the distance, and the name literally means "hill of joy." Camino de Santiago

  • Practical logistics for arrival day: the Pilgrim's Mass is held daily at 12:00 and 18:00, and your Compostela certificate can be picked up at the Pilgrim's Welcome Office on Rúa Carretas, open 12:00–16:00 — worth going early to avoid long queues.

Journal

I'm in Pedrouzo now—the rain has turned into a drizzle. This is the last stop before Santiago. I'm sitting on a terrace in the middle of nowhere, sharing a glass of wine with a fellow pilgrim, and it turns out we're both from Chicago, with a mutual friend between us. The first Chicago pilgrim I've met since Saint-Jean-Pied-de-Port—what a coincidence to save for the very end. I feel a little sad that this is almost over — a trip's worth of memories, and a kind of acknowledgment of myself I didn't have when I started. Tomorrow, I walk into Santiago. -That Eva!

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